Source : BUSINESS NEWS
MORE daylight hours, clear skies and warming sunshine alert us to summer’s approach.
And with that, the reds and perhaps even chardonnays of the past few months can now be supplemented with something a little different.
Something crisp, clean and refreshing. Something like riesling.
This cute little intoxicant provides some of the most enjoyable summer drinking with its distinct citrus, mineral tang and lively crisp acidity, which are ideal for bringing life to tired bodies.
Australia has made some of the world’s finest rieslings for many years, albeit in different styles to those of Germany and Austria. For much of our vinous history, these wines have come from the great regions of Eden Valley, Clare and Watervale, and Drumborg.
But there is little doubt that now wines from Western Australia, and in particular the Great Southern, rival and even surpass those from other Australian regions.
Of course, the Great Southern is a vast wine region, so the styles can vary.
From Mount Barker and Porongurup come tightly wound, citrus-driven, flinty wines. From Frankland River the rieslings show generous fruit, ripe lime, jasmine and a talc-like texture, while from Denmark and Albany they have a softer, floral, delicate edge because of the region’s proximity to the ocean.
Recently, the winemakers of the Great Southern brought their rieslings to Perth for the Riesling & Summer Wines at Royal Freshwater Bay Yacht Club.
In addition to riesling, a selection of white varieties, roses, and lighter-bodied reds were on pour.
The producers include 3 Drops, Castle Rock, Cherubino, Duke’s Vineyard, Ferngrove, Frankland Estate, Forest Hill, Gilberts, Howard Park, Paul Nelson, Plan B, Plantagenet, Swinney, The Next Hundred Years and West Cape Howe.
Great Southern Wine Producers Association chair Tom Wisdom from Plantagenet Wines said the region was emerging as a must-visit for wine aficionados.
“Cool-climate production lends itself to crisp aromatic whites and delicate and elegant lighter reds, which are on trend globally now,” he said.
“The diversity of quality wine production and style in the Great Southern and stunning natural landforms make Australia’s largest wine region a must visit.”
The cool climate and range of soils and typographies of the broader Great Southern has proved ideal for the range of distinctive styles.
As a general rule, the wines show an intensity, precision and minerally tension that makes them superb as fresh, young drinking wines, but with the capacity to age over many years.
In fact, an aged riesling remains one of the great tasting experiences. And when you think how relatively inexpensive these wines are, they are ideal for cellaring as they develop that mix of spice, honey and marmalade.
Cherubino Porongurup riesling 2025 ($65)
Fine, delicate and yet sustained and intense. This is a wonderful showcase of Porongurup riesling with its minerally spicy tension evident. It’s so pristine and pure, with a bracing-yet-fine acidity that lances to an extraordinarily long finish.
Score: 96/100
Cellar: 12 years
Rockcliffe Single Site Limited Release riesling 2025 ($35)
This is quite a punchy riesling from what already seems to be a very good year. It has a typical Great Southern spicy nuance, which merges into the more traditional citrus characters. There’s a little crunchy green apple and a faint stone fruit-like character. The palate is fine, controlled, high-line linear with a degree of tension keeping it on track. It has a nice texture and mouthfeel. Quite an interesting take on riesling.
Score: 94/100
Cellar: 10 years
Alkoomi Collection riesling 2025 ($32)
Alkoomi has long been one of the best riesling producers in the state, and this pure, almost pristine expression of Frankland riesling is superb. Only the free-run juice has been used, creating a wine of delicate character yet with the intensity of the region. Lively, with a nice degree of tension that drives the long, linear palate. Touches of bath salts, wet pebble, slate and citrus edge complete the picture. A lot to like here.
Score: 94/100
Cellar: 10 years
• Ray Jordan is one of Australia’s most experienced and respected wine journalists, contributing to newspapers and magazines over more than 40 years. In 2017 he co-authored The Way it Was: The History of the early years of the Margaret River Wine Region
