Source : the age
That one place in… Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France
Where Le Petit Grill Basque
Why There’s something to be said for Michelin stars, for all the fanciness and frippery, for art on a plate, for tuxedos and formality and little flower petals arranged with tweezers. That can be a great meal. But it’s not what you’re looking for every day. It probably doesn’t make you feel truly comfortable. For that, you want somewhere with a little less decorum, where dishes are bold and hearty while also being delicious, and waitstaff wear the same clothes everyone else is wearing and treat you like a friend.
For that, in Saint-Jean-de-Luz in south-western France, you need Le Petit Grill Basque. This restaurant is a near-century-old institution that has recently been revitalised by French-Basque chef Inaki Aizpitarte, who held a Michelin star in Paris at Le Chateaubriand, but decided on a sea change to coastal Pays Basque. Aizpitarte has kept the cosy, wood-panelled interiors at Le Petit Grill, and the simple bistro-style seating, but amped up the cuisine, presenting an ever-changing list of French-Basque classics and seasonal, experimental specials. The wine leans towards the natural and funky (but also expertly chosen), the welcome is friendly, and the atmosphere inside ensures you will never want to leave.
Order this Pick up the menu and have your translator app handy because it will be printed in two languages – French and Basque. Try something classic like steak tartare, or caponata with salt-cured anchovies, or opt for line-caught tuna in deep-red Bizkaina sauce, or brothy rice with rabbit. Finish on berries dressed with blackberry vinegar and Chantilly cream.
Eat it here In Melbourne, check out Andrew McConnell’s new European grill restaurant Cote Basque (cotebasque.com.au). To sample home-cooked Basque food in Sydney, make a booking at Gure Txoko (guretxoko.com.au). In Brisbane, the seaside French vibes are taken care of at Little Provence (littleprovencerestaurant.au).
More Le Petit Grill Basque is at 4 Rue Saint-Jacques in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, a seaside town near the Spanish border in Pays Basque. It’s open for dinner Wednesday to Saturday, and lunch on Fridays and Saturdays. Bookings are essential and can be done via Google. Expect to pay about $100 a person. See instagram.com/petitgrill_chezmaya
Ben Groundwater is a Sydney-based travel writer, columnist, broadcaster, author and occasional tour guide with more than 25 years’ experience in media, and a lifetime of experience traversing the globe. He specialises in food and wine – writing about it, as well as consuming it – and at any given moment in time Ben is probably thinking about either ramen in Tokyo, pintxos in San Sebastian, or carbonara in Rome. Follow him on Instagram @bengroundwaterConnect via email.
