Source : the age
Don’t miss one of Europe’s most attractive old towns, which has a lively, lived-in atmosphere thanks to its university and manufacturing credentials.
Who goes there
The long river cruise across Central Europe along the Rhine and Danube rivers, linked in between by the Main river and canals, is a key itinerary for cruise companies, and everyone does it. Some such as Scenic, Uniworld and Viking also offer shorter cruises between Regensburg or Nuremberg and Budapest. Shorter cruises also operate in winter with a focus on Christmas markets.
St Emmeram Palace in Regensburg.
Sail on in
The Danube is braided around two islands, and the waterway you follow narrows and features greenery on one side and the town centre on the other. You’ll get a nice view of Regensburg’s medieval core with the twin spires of St Peter Cathedral and those of several churches. On a blue-sky day, pastel-coloured buildings are reflected in the water.
Berth rites
River ships tie up at various docks along Marc Aurel Ufer quay just downstream from the newish Museum of Bavarian History, and about 1.4 kilometres downstream from the city’s famous Stone Bridge. You’ll be able to walk to old-town sights, although you can also chug around on an inner-city bus.
Going ashore
Lose yourself in the old town, which is cluttered with churches, fortified towers, medieval halls, coffeehouses and shops. Almost all of it is original, unlike many German old towns recreated after World War II bomb damage. The Gothic cathedral is superb, with saints and sinners heading towards their respective fates on its statue-encrusted facade. Although the old town will grab most (if not all) of your attention, Stadtamhof island district is also part of Regensburg’s World Heritage listing for its architecture, and has interesting boutiques.
The historic Stone Bridge in Regenburg.
Don’t miss
The Stone Bridge. Not that you’re likely to miss this city icon, which spans the Danube upriver from your cruise dock. Built in 1135, the plain but elegant bridge made Regensburg rich on trade routes between Italy and Germany. It provides wonderful views of the old town and, despite the tourists, is also popular with strolling locals. At the city end of the bridge Historische Wurstkuche, built in 1146 and with some claim to being the world’s oldest restaurant, is a lively spot for a sausage.
Get active
You’ll probably be satisfied wearing down your shoe soles in the old town, but if you cross to the Danube islands, you’ll get green open space where university students lounge, jog and play soccer. You could take a Danube boat to the hillside Walhalla memorial to distinguished Germans, which looks like a Greek temple, and walk the 10 kilometres back for a 2.5-hour workout. A section of the 220-kilometre Danube Panorama Trail passes through Regensburg.
Retail therapy
Regensburg’s old town core is packed with both mainstream brand-name stores and independent boutiques. Homeware, painted ceramics and candles are city specialities. Head down Gesandtenstrasse for fashion, Untere Bachgasse for accessories such as jewellery and handbags, and Tandlergasse and Kramgasse for antiques. You’ll find department stores and shoe shops at Neupfarrplatz, not far from the cathedral.
Further afield
You have no reason to skip Regensburg and cruise companies know that, so don’t expect much excursion choice. You might opt for a guided tour of St Emmeram Palace on the far side of the old town from the river quays, or visit one of Bavaria’s oldest monasteries at Weltenburg Abbey, which sits pretty in a green bend of the Danube with low cliffs, 35 kilometres upstream from Regensburg. The location is attractive, and the abbey features a baroque altar and extravagantly frescoed ceiling.
