Why this ‘pure Melbourne’ trattoria is attracting a new wave of admirers

Kaprica is having a moment. Pietro Barbagallo’s Carlton classic, which moved from Lincoln Square to Grattan Street in 2020, has always been a bit of an if-you-know-you-know favourite, just far enough removed from the touristy bustle of Lygon Street to attract a more local crowd. I’ve been going there for years on nights I don’t want to cook, often parking myself on one of the big comfy leather couches where my husband and I can play cards, sip negronis and eat pasta without the social or economic commitment of a more formal restaurant.

Over the last year, I’ve noticed the dining room filling up earlier, and quiet nights are not really a thing any more. The restaurant shows up on my Instagram feed all the time, and it seems to have acquired a dedicated following among Gen Z diners. Not much has changed – the menu retains its straightforward approach: antipasto, pizza, pasta. So why the newfound popularity?

I have a few guesses. This is a fantastic vintage storefront room, pure Melbourne, with high ceilings and white walls and simple wooden tables and chairs, and at night the light is moody and warm. It has a wonderful lived-in feel, with shelves of books and games, and a certain boisterous energy that manages to be romantic too, but a non-pressured kind of romanticism, a perfect second date (or in my case, 1000th) vibe. It’s a great spot for groups, particularly if you’re looking to avoid the awkward can-my-friends-afford-this calculation of a celebratory meal.

It has a wonderful lived-in feel, with shelves of books and games, and a certain boisterous energy that manages to be romantic too.

In a city where the average mid-range bistro is becoming too expensive for many diners, Kaprica is decidedly affordable. Just about everything other than starters cost $30, and you don’t need a starter to get full. There’s only one bottle of wine over $100 on the list and there are a few under $50.

My go-to order? A plate of the garlic and chilli prawns, big, spicy and satisfying, followed by a bowl of one of the heartier pastas. Barbagallo is especially good at ragus, and his lamb shoulder over rigatoni is what I’ll be craving as the nights get cooler. He also makes a fantastic spaghetti with meatballs, the meat perfectly spiced, the tomato sugo bright and balanced.

The pizzas are far better than much of what you’ll find on Lygon Street, and also aren’t aiming for gourmet status – this kitchen isn’t above offering a Hawaiian, but the mushroom deluxe has Swiss browns and trumpets rather than your run-of-the-mill buttons. I can’t stay away from the capricciosa, because that’s what my dad used to order and I’m a nostalgic sap, and this version is fresher and thinner and made with better ingredients than many in town.

There are other factors, too. The staff of mostly young women could step off the floor and directly into an inner-north Melbourne fashion shoot, all louche beauty and cool confidence. And the restaurant’s social media game is currently excellent – the Instagram account is funny and weird and clever, things that many businesses try for but few do well.

You shouldn’t come here expecting culinary fireworks, super-crisp service (this place is busy!) or anything other than basic fresh ingredients made well. I thought the risotto was a bit loose, but I honestly never would have ordered it had I not been eating as a professional. It’s the type of restaurant where you pick your favourites and stick with them. Dessert is just dessert – you want tiramisu? They have it. It’s not served from a giant fancy cart, or flavoured with exotic ingredients. It’s creamy and sweet and perfectly satisfactory.

Kaprica’s current moment may simply be because more people have figured out what many of us have long known: this place delivers just about everything you’d want from a casual neighbourhood restaurant. It’s pretty, it’s fun, it’s affordable, and much of the food is reliably delicious. It’s not trying to be anything it isn’t. But some days that’s exactly what you want, and on those days it’s places like Kaprica that make living and eating in this city such an uncomplicated joy.