Move over, dirty martini. The dirty daiquiri is the drink you never knew you needed

Cocktail fanciers, take note. The dirty daiquiri has hit town and it’s taking no prisoners. Think of it as the kissing cousin of the dirty martini – white rum, lime juice and olive brine, garnished with three meaty olives.

You’ll find this crisp, briny and savoury number at 20 York Street. Follow the big red “R” down into the basement to be greeted by a beautifully lit open-plan space of exposed beams, blood-red velvet curtains, warped mirror balls and plenty of intimate little tables. This is the first bar Odd Culture has opened since Newtown late-night lounge The Pleasure Club. It’s also the hospitality group’s first foray into the CBD, and it’s come out swinging.

There’s live music, for starters. Tonight, local Sydney act Mister Ott is busting out Ethio-jazz. The sunken room is packed. The energy is palpable. Rounds of cocktails cover the tables and gentle conversation spills from table to table. It’s a great vibe.

Then there are the snacks, which follow a general rule of OTT with an extra serving of T. Crisp, golden-fried parmesan-stuffed potato skins, for instance, are topped with a little spoonful of caviar.

The “Dirty Royale cheeseburger” translates as a pink, plump wagyu patty, Red Leicester cheese, tomato sauce, mustard and pickles on a thick, soft roll. It’s then cut in half and placed face down in a pool of cheesy bechamel. Personally, I think the burger is great sans plate of goo, but it does give the internet something to talk about.

A prawn cocktail, served in a retro squiggly-stemmed cocktail glass, stars sweet juicy prawns topped, tailed and smothered in Marie Rose sauce, served on a bed of shredded iceberg. Pork meatballs are surprisingly red-hot spicy, coated in a sticky chilli sauce. If you really want to turn up the flavour haze, try dipping the garlic twists – crisp-fried dough slathered in garlic and chilli butter – into the meatball sauce.

They’re calling it a discotheque and daiquiri bar “inspired by the underground pre-glossy days of disco and excess in New York”. I guess it’s hard to argue the toss of what that might have looked, sounded or felt like, given it was a little before my time. Though I’m guessing there weren’t many underground discos putting pandan in their daiquiris or beeswax in their Rusty Nails. An amaretto sour and a night with Giorgio Moroder? That feels right.

Still, if you forget about what they’re referencing and concentrate on what they’re offering, there’s a lot of fun to be had when ordering. Try a world of brightly coloured, sweet and fruity cocktails (hello, strawberry daiquiri spiked with the teeniest hint of Sichuan pepper). And, because you can order via QR code, you don’t need to see the bartender’s face when you order another round of Pavlova Fruit Tingles (that’s a fruity, bright blue hurricane glass of vodka, curacao, kiwi and passionfruit).

Hot tip, on the subject of QR codes. There’s a whole menu of classic cocktails that aren’t printed on the hard copy of the list you’ll find on your table. If you’re after the classics – Torontos, Old Pals, South Sides – you’ll find them here.

What feels the truest to the attitude of the bars of that time is the “all welcome” credo. The crowd here is a real melting pot of ages and persuasions. If you’re looking for new, fun and exciting date night options – places that break the ice and don’t put too much pressure on the date itself – then Razz Room nails the brief.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.